I need to get back into it!

I has been too long. I have not surfed since October of 2017.

I will be 52 this may. in October we have our annual surf camping trip. This is the 30th Anniversary of this.  yes, that is 1988.

I need to get back into it.

Ian " KANGA" Cairns

I was picking up a board, yes a 7' Wavestorm, or as I like to joke, a 6'-12". Since Ian and his wife are involved with the company, I asked if Ian could sign my Bronzed Aussies Surfboard. It was such an honor to meet Ian and have him sign this. The Bronzed Aussies started professionalism and marketing of the pro surfing with the formation of the Bronzed Aussies. See the Story of them here on surfline (Bronzed Aussies)

Tony Alva at Secos

It has been awhile since I surfed(new Years Day) My back has been bad, and I am working on a career change from Real Estate Appraiser to Real Estate Agent.

Anyways, I had to head up to Oxnard this morning. I knew the swell was good, so I went straight to Secos.

It felt real good to get in the water, the kelp was real thick. As I was sitting on my board, i see this guy paddle back out, he looked very familiar. I realized it was Tony Alva!

After I came in I grabbed my camera to get some picks of TA, enjoy!

New Surf Movie

The most anticipated surf movie of our time. from Eric Peterson on Vimeo.

Finally....My good friend, "EP"

his wife is a freelance producer and editor, always too busy to do fun stuff, until now. Enjoy!

The 70's

Surf Story - Phil Edwards

Surf Stories--- You Should have Been Here an Hour Ago!


Way back when, there was a one page story in Surfer or Surfing. It included a small excerpt from Phil Edwards’s book from 1967.

For some reason, that one page little story stuck with me. I never forgot the name of the book. I made it a mission to find it. It was kind of like looking for the Holy Grail of Surf books.

I looked for this book every place I went, every used book store from San Diego to San Luis Obispo. Remember, this was before the “internet”. You actually had to search for stuff and have some luck.

In the Early 90’s, things changed, Longboarding was the rage, along with collecting boards. My girlfriend (future wife) and I went to the Longboard Grotto in Luecadia one day. As I was looking around, there it was in all its Glory after all these years. A mint, first edition. Keep in mind, I had never actually seen or held one before. I asked it I could see it, I was literally was pissing my pants. Then, I saw he price. I said thanks, but I will keep Looking.


I forgot about. Christmas came and my Girlfriend, said she had one last gift for me. She handed me a box. I peeled off the paper and opened the box, and there was the book. I mean THE BOOK! (this girl became my wife by the way).

At that time I was living in Newport and she lived in San Diego. I knew where Phil Edwards lived, but not the exact location. Somehow through research, I got his phone number. I called him up, told him who I was and asked if I could mail him my book to sign. He said yes! I was stoked, this was Phil Edwards!

Well I decided instead of mailing the book to him, I would drop it off at his house when I was son my way to San Diego. I stopped by and left it on his porch with a note and a phone number. He called me the next morning to say that he had my book and that he would sign it and wanted to know where to mail it too, I asked if I could pick it up and he said sure. I asked if we could swing by the next morning and he agreed. I was now literally freaking out! I had the Holy Grail and was actually going to meet the man himself.

We drove up in the morning. When we pulled up in front of his house, I was shaking. I remember walking up to his front door. Phil Edwards Front Door! I rang the doorbell and his wife came to the door and invited us in. (I was in Phil Edwards House!). Then Phil came in the room. This is the first guy to ever Ride Pipeline, Phil Edwards, and I am in his living room! We talked, he commented on how that was the best copy of the book he had seen, and then asked me to come back to this other room to see some things he was working on. Phil Edwards!

He talked and shared some things. He included a pictured and signed it. I thanked him for his time and we left. Phil Edwards! I just meet Phil Edwards! I was in his House!

This was one day that I felt Like a grom, I will never forget it.

The Groms New Used Board

I got the Grom a NEW, used board last month, it is an old Morning star from Santa Barabara, it is 6'-10" x21"x3". These are some pictures of his second session on the board. I think he Likes it.

Also, be sure to check out the new  Blog, The Local Surfer, if you know someone  who should be on it Let me know

Only First and Finish!

A wise old Waterman by the name of Mike Eaton told me once in his shop, " There is only First and Finish in paddleboarding". This could not be more true of the Catalina Classic. It starts on Catalina and ends at the Manhattan Beach Pier, 32 miles! A mutual friend, Chuck Camps just did his first Classic, it might be his only, but he did it. He made the cut off at the R10 bouy with 5 minutes to spare. He did not come in first, but he finished! Way to Go Chuck!