Dont know who this was?
This is a shot I took of VR at Middles. I got down there early, around 7a, surfed until 10am and was too cold to surf more. and neded a break. The place really turned on as the tide dropped. There was a pont in the morning, about an hour, where it was just me, on other guy and fours gouys out infront of the toilets and a few kids on the peak at Lowers. It was sheet Glass......I surfed too long I think, my back is toast, I am on the verge of back spasams.
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