Sunday, June 27, 2010
So, I actually got out and surfed this past weekend……Twice. How crazy is that? The longer you stay out of the water, the harder it is to get back.
I was really lacking the motivation to go, so I devised a plan that would test my desire. A 4:30am wake-up for a Dawn Patrol. Truly crazy. But then, I made it even more difficult by deciding to go to County Line.
Some how, I had friend agree to go along. I can always count on him for a Road Trip and a Dawn Patrol.
By the time we got to County Line (after stopping for Coffee) it as about 5:40. The tide was very low, and the waves looked average at best. I really wanted to just turn around. But I had made such a good effort, I had to paddle out. I brought the 2mm short sleeve full, what a mistake. When I first jumped in the water and felt the cold come over me, I thought what a bad idea this was. But these are the things that happen if you don’t surf regularly. You make excuses about why you don’t surf.
I wasn’t a stellar session, but I did manage to catch a couple before I succumb to the cold and the mediocre conditions.
This one was not even planned. Surfing was the last thing on my mind. I had just finished taking the dog for a walk, and stopped to talk to my neighbor. He said he was going to surf since the swell was up. He was going to Anderson Street. Then it got me thinking, this is a South, South East Swell, the river jetty at Seal works good, sometimes real good on this type of swell. HB was out of the question on a South, you get in at The cliffs, and in fifteen minutes you are almost at Bolsa.
I grabbed my trusty 7’-6” and went on down to hit Seal. The waves looked good. I caught a few and came in, nothing great, but just enough.
After being Self-Employed for 8 years, and being able to surf whenever and wherever(usually Trestles). Having a par-time paid Consulting Job in an office is tough. I would normally surf during the week and not surf weekends. But, responsibility calls.
Posted by Craig Wallace at 7:54 PM
Sunday, June 6, 2010
So, my good mate, VR sent me this picture of his 1971 Opel.His first car. He loved that car. This is a picture from 1982, or 1983 up in Ventura, by EmmaWood. He said the boards on the roof are Channel Islands Twin Fin and a Skip Frye Single. I would kill to have those now.
Sadly, both the boards and the car are gone. But it makes you think back to the innocent times, when you got your drivers license, and all the surf spots opend up. You became free to hit the road and search for surf.
This was before surfline. If you wanted to know what the surf was like someplace, you got in your car and drove there, The only kinda of surf report w back then was to watch Dr. George Fischbeck on Channle 7 at 11pm.
Posted by Craig Wallace at 8:05 PM