Tuesday, December 18, 2012

Surf Story - Phil Edwards

Surf Stories--- You Should have Been Here an Hour Ago!

Way back when, there was a one page story in Surfer or Surfing. It included a small excerpt from Phil Edwards’s book from 1967.

For some reason, that one page little story stuck with me. I never forgot the name of the book. I made it a mission to find it. It was kind of like looking for the Holy Grail of Surf books.

I looked for this book every place I went, every used book store from San Diego to San Luis Obispo. Remember, this was before the “internet”. You actually had to search for stuff and have some luck.

In the Early 90’s, things changed, Longboarding was the rage, along with collecting boards. My girlfriend (future wife) and I went to the Longboard Grotto in Luecadia one day. As I was looking around, there it was in all its Glory after all these years. A mint, first edition. Keep in mind, I had never actually seen or held one before. I asked it I could see it, I was literally was pissing my pants. Then, I saw he price. I said thanks, but I will keep Looking.

I forgot about. Christmas came and my Girlfriend, said she had one last gift for me. She handed me a box. I peeled off the paper and opened the box, and there was the book. I mean THE BOOK! (this girl became my wife by the way).

At that time I was living in Newport and she lived in San Diego. I knew where Phil Edwards lived, but not the exact location. Somehow through research, I got his phone number. I called him up, told him who I was and asked if I could mail him my book to sign. He said yes! I was stoked, this was Phil Edwards!

Well I decided instead of mailing the book to him, I would drop it off at his house when I was son my way to San Diego. I stopped by and left it on his porch with a note and a phone number. He called me the next morning to say that he had my book and that he would sign it and wanted to know where to mail it too, I asked if I could pick it up and he said sure. I asked if we could swing by the next morning and he agreed. I was now literally freaking out! I had the Holy Grail and was actually going to meet the man himself.

We drove up in the morning. When we pulled up in front of his house, I was shaking. I remember walking up to his front door. Phil Edwards Front Door! I rang the doorbell and his wife came to the door and invited us in. (I was in Phil Edwards House!). Then Phil came in the room. This is the first guy to ever Ride Pipeline, Phil Edwards, and I am in his living room! We talked, he commented on how that was the best copy of the book he had seen, and then asked me to come back to this other room to see some things he was working on. Phil Edwards!

He talked and shared some things. He included a pictured and signed it. I thanked him for his time and we left. Phil Edwards! I just meet Phil Edwards! I was in his House!

This was one day that I felt Like a grom, I will never forget it.

Monday, November 26, 2012

The Groms New Used Board

I got the Grom a NEW, used board last month, it is an old Morning star from Santa Barabara, it is 6'-10" x21"x3". These are some pictures of his second session on the board. I think he Likes it.

Also, be sure to check out the new  Blog, The Local Surfer, if you know someone  who should be on it Let me know

Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Only First and Finish!

A wise old Waterman by the name of Mike Eaton told me once in his shop, " There is only First and Finish in paddleboarding". This could not be more true of the Catalina Classic. It starts on Catalina and ends at the Manhattan Beach Pier, 32 miles! A mutual friend, Chuck Camps just did his first Classic, it might be his only, but he did it. He made the cut off at the R10 bouy with 5 minutes to spare. He did not come in first, but he finished! Way to Go Chuck!

Friday, August 3, 2012

So, the "Grom" and I went down to the US Open this morning. We got there early. Just as we pulled into the parking lot, Brett Simpson was unloading, Cole went over and got his shirt signed and a picture with Brett. Next we got down to the sand, got a photo with the Brazzo,Miguel Pupo. Then Timmy Reyes, Tanner Gudauskas, Kai Otten, Dane Reynolds and then Kelly Slater! In all seriousness, I think the real Grom was me.

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Wavestorm Fun

So I recently got a GoPro  to film my sun as  he laerns to surf. I mounted in on the top of his Wavestorm and we went down and tried it out. After he was done, I had to paddle out on his board. This isa a little clip.

Monday, June 11, 2012

Monday, May 14, 2012

What's Old is New, wetsuis, DEVO and Me

What’s old can be new again. How true. I took some old wetsuits to M&B Wetsuits in Lakewood and had them altered for summer. I had the sleeves cut off. Now I have a 3/2 short sleeve, 2mm shorter sleeve and a repaired Ripcurl 3/2. These suits have a new lease on life. Speaking of Life, I stepped one year closer to the 50; I made it to 46 on Saturday. So, to Celebrate , I went to see DEVO at the Observatory in OC on Sunday night. What a great show as always. I have seen them a few times in the past few years, true, they are a little older, but they kicked ass as usual. I also got out and surfed the closest place to my house last week, Seal River Jetty. I was fun, I actually caught a shoulder/ head high on from the middle river all the way to Crabs. A good time for sure. I think I will hit it tomorrow. Here is to a injury free 46.

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

Spring Update

Time to sit down and write a post. The family and I went to the Big Island for Spring break. I got to do a lot of snorkeling with my son, and we went fishing, but no catching. I made some time to finally meet Tim Orr, the Bonzer affciaonado. Tim is a great guy and has a amazing collection of Bonzers, I think he actually has the 5th board the Campbell brothers actually made. I did get in a surf after I got back. All the injuries are finally healed, and I hope to get back in the water more.

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

Two of my favorite pics

Wasted Youth and Boots at Oki Dogs.

Sunday, February 19, 2012


A friend of mine sent this picture of his old friend Bret Boyd and his brother.
Such a classic picture, I had to post it.

Monday, January 23, 2012

A Friend needs Some Help

Imagine you have no insurance and you broke your leg/ankle, what would you do?
Well, this girl needs our help.

Read the story here.


You can go here to donate.

Friday, January 6, 2012