Thursday, January 27, 2011

Session #6

Lets just say spot x was good today.

This is the kook himself on a nice wave, thanks for the shot VR

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Session #5

(click on image for larger photo)

So, my other good buddy VR calls me last night and wants to surf. He has been out sick for all of this good run of swells and missed it all. We decide to head to Spot X.

We get there just as a set is rolling in.....awesome. I get out before him and cath a great head high right and get off four turns before kicking out. I was on my 7'-6" pintail single fin, I will have to post a picture. I got another from out back and worked it all the way in til it was about a foot high and on the rocks, over 50 yards.
Caught plenty of others too..

I think I am going back on Thursday.

Monday, January 24, 2011

Session #4

I almost did not go. But I did, and it was worth it. LC and I were the 4tha and 5th guys in the water just after sun up.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

New Swell and the psuedo "Home Break"

There is talk of a good swell coming. I am sure everyone will be on it. There can be a lot of anticipation and planning in the days before the forecasted arrival. What time is high tide? How is the weather? What spot will be best? What time should we go, who can go with you, What board should I ride. I remember a time before "Surfline" and forecasts. You broke out your weather radio, watched the weather report, and rolled the dice. Maybe you scored, maybe you got skunked.

Imagine for moment if all the "surf reports" ran a little experiment, and stopped forecasting for 2 weeks. Just think, you might actually have to roll the dice.

Speaking of rolling the dice, I have kind of turned into a " Home Break" junkie. Yes, being from the LBC, we don't actually get many waves, but I am begining to know when to look for the elusive extremely small swell window that might make it work.
This is the closet place to my house, I could be there in less then 5 minutes. I'll keep you posted if something happens.

Monday, January 17, 2011

Paddle, Bike Surf. Sessions #2 and 3.

So my buddy EP and I decided to go for a paddle yesterday on our paddleboards (not SUPS), I hate having to say that. There was a time when people knew. A paddleboard was a paddleboard, was a paddleboard.

So,the weather was great, and we decided to just do a short paddle around Island Chaffe in LB. Once we got to the south end of the island, EP asked if I wanted to go across to the channel, back in and up the peninsula to where we started. The tide was coming out so the current in the channel would be going against us the entire way. Off we went. EP was up on his knees alot, and I was prone. Once we turned the corner and headed up the channel, it was none stop, when we got to the end by the yacht club, EP turned around to see where I was and I was right there within striking distance. He was on his 18’ board and I was on a 14’, that extra 4’ helps. We got to the end rinsed off and went home. I then used Google Pedometer to measure the distance, 3.7 miles. A good time.

This brings me to today. I knew the surf would be good and my friend from S. County called and wanted to surf at Trestles. Sounds good. The swell was up; the sun was out, a perfect day.

So we surfed some fun waves. I rode my 6’-6” and had fun, but conditions changed and I was wishing I was on my 7’-6” single fin, that thing is a wave catching machine. So, after surfing for about 2.5 hours, I decided to ride my bike back up the trail and get my 7’-6” from my truck and ride back down for Session #2. This was a good choice, but my tank was quickly running out of gas, I could only stay out for another hour.

Then I had to ride back up the trail again. I was fricken beat, when I got to my truck.

The distance from the parking lot to the beach is 1.2 miles, I did that 4 times, surfed for 3.5 hours, all on top of the 3.7 miles I paddled yesterday.

I need a nap!

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Surf Session #1

I got this idea to number my surfs this year from anpther Blogger, Pabs.

So, I did a dawn patrol tlast friday. Iwas so cold, even wth my new wetsuit. I really think a Hood wold bhave made it better.

Over all the waves where fun, and it felt good to surf with an old friend. I rode my 6'-6" and wish i had been on my 7'-6" Single Fin. That thing is a wave catching machine.

Anyways the firs session was a good time.

Sunday, January 2, 2011

New BOZ Wetsuit

I broke down and got a new wetsuit last week. My Ripcurl had a hole in it, it was 3 years old.

So I had been looking for a new suit. Thought about Patagonia, Axxe, Matuse, etc... The typical, name brands I was never a fan of. My friends know that I always want somethig a ltiile dfferent. I had been looking at the BOZ suits for awhile. I read all I could find on them. Then I decided it was Time to call George, there Rep here in California. I tlaked to him and deciced to drive down to his house in San Diego , which also doubles as the warehouse. I tried a few on and decided on the Comp 4/2.5. The thin is super comfortable. I used it the other day behind the Orange Curtain and it kept me toasty Warm.

I ould highly reccomend this for your next suit. The prices are good.

Call George or look them up at