Friday, April 9, 2010

Last Day!

I went down early for a surf check. The Trade Wind were still blowing, but from the ESE, still blowing things out. I sat on the wall and looked at "the spot" for a long time, trying to "will" the wind to stop. But, my Jedi powers did not work.

In retrospect, surfing in warm water, with the trades, is still better then surfing with a fullsuit.

My time here has been great. I dont want it to be this long until I come back. The family was already saying they wanted to come back.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Two Drink minimum!

Yes, there is plenty to drink here. Rum is the main drink, Pain Killers and Pina Coladas.
We ventured over the west end for some late afternoon eats and drinks. We sat down and looked out over the harbor. This is a main watering hole for many of the charters. The was one "HUGE" Yatch, just the kind you dream about if you won the lottery. As I was watching, I noticed two guys walking down the gangway with surfboards. The boards were brand new from the local shaper here on the island. They loaded up there dingy and some of the kids from the yatch got on with there boards and they speed of to hit "the spot".

By this time my first 16oz Pina Colada came, then some food, Conch Fritters. I had one more 160z Coladaand took it for the road. As we came back over Zion Hill, the surf actually looked a little fun for a sunset session. I dropped off the family, got my board and went back.

There was one guy out, it was about 2'-4' with some trade wind. Another guy paddled out as I was looking at it.

So, I jumped in and started paddling, but did not feel so good, it was those damn Pina coladas with all that Rum and Coco Lopez mix, I literally thought I was going to puke, I felt so bloated and full.

I grabbed a couple of smalls, because that all there was before a squall hit and went in.

Lesson learned, do not drink two 16oz Pina Coladas before you surf.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Trade Winds and Banana Nut Pancakes

The trades picked back up again this morning. As you can see, a standard mode of surf transport is by Boat.

I went back down to the spot around 9:30 for Breakfast. Where else can you eat Banana Nut Pancakes and watch the surf?

Monday, April 5, 2010

Less Wind, Less Waves

Well the winds died down a little this morning. I went down to check the waves. I stood on the beach as the "rasta guy" got high about fifty feet from me.

The swell was dropping, you could tell, but there was no one out to actually be able to tell the size. So, I had to go and find out. The water is so warm. I paddled out from the left of the peak. The sets were about 2'-4' with an occasional 5', and I do mean "ocasional".

I got few right out of the gate, and worked the as much as can be worked. I have to say, it was fun.

On a side note, so far all the others guys I have talked to in the lineup are pretty mellow. No aggro ex-pats, or locals. Most of the guys have been coming down here for years, a guy from Jersey has been coming dont since 1992, and another guy for over 30 years. Hell, my first trip here was in 1996, but I have not been coming every year.

The forecast calls for a drop in swell then a pick up at the end of the week. The wind will switch to the east, which will be more side shore, but the mountains will give some protection.

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Trade Winds and Choppy Surf

I ran down to do a surf check at "the Spot". This in not a far distance from the place I am staying at. I can wake up and look out the window, but I cant see around a point to see "the spot"

The Trades are still blowing and the forecast is for a building swell. I got in the car for the 2 minute drive to take some pics of the conditions. I cant make my photo stafff ( my wife and son) get up and sit on the beach to watch Dad in the morning.

Two guys were out in the less then stellar conditions. As I was heading back to the car, I bumped into a friend from Delaware,"Jim". I had meet jim on a previous trip to "the spot" over ten years ago. We chatted and he said he was going out. I went back and got my board and paddled out.

I am to surf warm water..... and warm waterblown out surf is better then cold surf.

This pic is some random guy that was out.

Hope the wind stops, because it would be good, about 3'-6'.

Thursday, April 1, 2010

First Day here in the Carribean

Well, after a long day of travel, We are finally here.

It all started when the Two Somali car service guys showed up at my house to pick up me and the family. I looked down after we had loaded everything, and the back tire was almost flat. The two guys looked at each other in complete surprise. I had to direct them to a gas station to fill up with air.

Once we got on the "Redeye" the plane was totally sold out. No trying to score a bulkhead seat!

We arrived in San Juan, Puerto Rico to catch our America Eagle, (more like a tweety bird). We get everything on, i saw the boards made it so I breathed a sigh of relief. Well, as our luck would have it, the AC was not working on the plane..WAIT a MINUTE, who wants to hear about that?
Lets talk about the surf!

As I came over Zion Hill Road, I watched a nice peak peel off over the reef. I made a mental note that 3 guys were out.

About an hour later, I got my stuff together and and drove over, it was about 5pm and there were at least 10 guys out. I pulled out my trusty 7'-6" single fin pintail, it is kind of "hullshape".

I waxed up, and walked down the beach looking for the channel. Just as I started the paddle out a nice 5' face set broke on the reef. The right peeled off better then the lefts. Once I got to the peak, I looked around to see if there was a pecking order, who was local, and who was not. I sat on the shoulder to figure things out for about 15 minutes. A set was coming, but was hitting the reef about 20 yards north of me, it looked so good, the water is in the high 70's and crystal clear.

After that set, another one started coming in to where I was on the reef, I let the first one go, and swung around for the second. I stroked into the clear water with total determination and salivation, just as I felt the glide, I popped up and took off down the line, a quick pump for speed, the the wave started to feel the reef and set up, the face height was about 6'. I did some carving turns and milked it for at least 50 yards,before I realized I was in shallow water about 2' and kicked out.

I stroked back out with and huge smile. I guy on a longboard was paddling back out next to me and said"nice wave"! Yes it was

Well i grabbed a few more small ones and then waited a little farther out and to the north for one like I saw when I first paddled out.

Sure enough, my patience was rewarded. A perfect 6' foot peak was hitting the reef, I was in the perfect spot. I dropped in, and hit it fast, carving high, then dropping low, This thing just kept on opening up for me, The local guy was paddling back, and I did a high crave right over him. I worked this thing for about 60 yards, then pronned out for the ride to the sand.

I reached down and undid my leash, looked back and just smiled, I was so stoked to have a good session on my first day here.

Sorry, no pictures, I cant leave the camera in the car. I will try and snap a few tomorrow.