What does surfing mean to you?

What does surfing mean to you?

Really, stop and think about that! What does Surfing mean to you? Think about how long you have been surfing, 5, 10, 20, 30 years? What else have you done for that long with such dedication, that it is the driving force in your life? Sure there are times when you don’t surf much, but it is still there, it is still part of you. What is it about surfing that has that inexhaustible, long term affect, the ability to enter your soul, your mind, and provide a continual deep-rooted ability to stay with you?

Surfing can have a different meaning for you at different times in your life. Think back, maybe to 16 or 18. What did it mean then? For me, the two are very different.

For me, surfing is simple, it is the mornings that I associate surfing the most with. The quite, the new, the unknown. Surfing fills a void. Without Surfing, I don’t know what I would do, who I would be. Without surfing I would be just like the tourist that pulls up next to you in the parking lot. The one that looks so out of place. Without surfing,I would not be me……………

Doug Aitken - The Idea of the West

A while back I had a post about an old friend, Artist Doug Aitken. I found his email address and we connected. I sent him a link to "Clean Up Set".

Doug was looking over the posts and found a shot of EP and his Aipa Stinger from the 1970's. The photo was taken by EP's brother, Paul. Doug was working on a book for the Museum of contemporary Art in LA, and was in the final stages getting it ready to print. He sent me an email asking if he could use that picture to include in his book.

I called EP, and he looked high and low for a original copy to scan and send to Doug.

We finally found one, and emailed it to him just in time.

I got home today to find two copies of the book in the mail. I opened it, turned to page 93 to see our boys mug. This is bitter sweet for EP and his family, since his older brother is no longer with us. I wish I had the chance to meet him. I have seen a bunch of his photos, and they are pretty cool. Maybe I can get a few to put up on the blog.

RIP Paul!

JUST IN...Belmont Shore!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would like to think this would be my "Home Spot" if it broke more often. I always check it in the winter on big stormy swells.

I was down this afternoon shooting some pics. I saw this kid ride up on his bike. His name is Dakota, I told him to paddle out and I would snap some photos.

I think this is actually the first ridable day of the winter, hopefully more to come.





photo C-DUB

What Came over me?

Seriously, what got into me to actually surf someplace within a 15 minute drive?

I was sitting in my home office, which was nice and cozy. The dog was asleep on the couch, and I was just reading some emails, and doing a few things. I knew the surf had picked up a little, but the weather sucks! It’s cold out, not Nor Cal cold, but cold for here. I know the water was cold, because I went for a nice 2.5 mile paddle on Sunday in the bay, and my arms where freezing, but at least it was warm out. That little paddle kind of got me fired up to surf.

My buddy did another "Black Ops Dawn Patrol at LZ1 this morning and said it was fun. So, here I am sitting in my office and I check the cams, it looks good. So I figure, what the heck, just run down and surf for 45mins, then come back and work.

I grab my 6'-6" Webber Compact Disc and head out. I got the heater going, a nice cup of Joe, all the while my mind is saying, just check it out!

I pull into the "Staging Area", hop out, and shimmy up the hill and peak over the top to check out LZ1. It looks good, plenty of action, other guys moving all around the LZ, digging in. I suit up, wax up and head out down the rocks.

I waited for a bit to size things up and look for the best, fastest and easiest way off the beach. I hit the water just a set was coming, bad luck on my part, but I pushed on!

I sat out side and waited. I told myself, to wait for the right one. Sure enough, a nice little peak pops up on the outside; I head for the right, another guy for the left. I paddle hard, mentally telling myself to get to my feet fast and don't blow it! I feel the wave start to lift me forward; I take one extra stroke for good luck, put my hand on the deck and push off. Now, this is where my friends are usually paddling back out, and either my hand slips off the deck, or I just blow it and cartwheel right in front of them. NOT THIS TIME! I angle right, feet planted firmly, I stay low and compact, and go to the bottom, lean on my inside rail and push with my legs to make a nice smooth bottom turn and look up at a nice shoulder/head high wall lining up. (I almost pissed my wetsuit with excitement that I did not blow it.) Coming out of my bottom turn I got some speed, and shot up the face. I shifted my weight back over the center, got low and eyed the lip in front of me. (Holy #$@#! don't blow this!). I leaned onto my back foot, leading with my left arm, and pointing with my right, I hit the lip, drove some weight onto my back foot while rotating and threw a nice little spray. (I almost pissed my wetsuit with excitement again) No typical stalls and falls. I actually looked like I knew what I was doing. I must have been channeling my inner surfer that has been dormant. What ever it was it was FUCKING AWESOME! I came back down, leaned into the face for a quick speed pump, and noticed it was going to close out. I shot back up and did a nice flying pull out with a Triple Lindy, and into the water.

Granted, it was not the longest wave, but, hell, beach breaks are not points.

Sadly I was surfing as "Mr. Lonely, party of one". None of my friends saw it.

I caught another good one and came in from my 45 minute heat, stoked!

All it takes is one good ride to get you back into it. The best part was that I was doing this local. Not driving north or south. My crew will fall over when they read this.

BLack Ops - Dawn Patrol Mission(Surfing is a Addiction)

I get this from a good friend of mine this morning. I have talked about this guy in the past. This is my friend that has Glaucoma in his left eye, had that surgey were they put a little pressure reflief valve in to keep him from going Blind. Well, surfing is like a drug. He was told to stay out of the water beacuse he could get an internal eye infection and go blind! That was two years ago. I guess he can't stay out of the water any more. Kinda of like falling off the wagon. he has been on a surfing binge for a little while now.
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This was the email and photo.( He loves to use Corel Draw on his Photos)



Hilarity this morning at the cliffs, while most of you were getting an extra hour sleep. Ned is hell bent on surfing 6 days a week so when the waves are good I try to join him. Even if he has a meeting at 7:00am he will get in the water at O dark thirty. This morning was no exception, waves were a solid 2-4, so Ned recommended we go to the (spot deleted to protect the locals).

So we meet at 5:30 near *** beach. Ned pops out of the Prius, with full camo paint on his face………………..Jesus,we are like two 8 year olds. After cracking up and taking a photo we wait for Travelocity(nick name of other surfer) but,the invasion can’t be late so we move to the launching point on the beach. After reviewing the huge consistent waves and the massive current we agree, on a LZ1 spot ( Landing Zone ) directly in front of the bathroom lights and the first palm tree. After we paddle out, we plan to meet just outside the waves (like on Saving private Ryan when he says “what do we do now sir” and he answers “get to the beach” well this is kind of like the opposite of that, get off the beach!

As we walk out into the surf, and its fucking black as night out in the pre-dawn, and I can’t see shit,I say to Ned “now I’ll meet you straight out………….right there”. Once we jump on our boards and start paddling, its clear why I’m titled paddleboard champion and Ned is not. As I’m halfway out, and still in earshot of Ned, I notice there is a lull in the waves and I yell “COME ON DUDE GO NOW!”……I paddle hard, and barely make it over an outside set, look back to see the carnage that is Ned, being dragged to the beach with about 18 more waves in the set on his head……..

I stay and surf at LZ1 (as planned) for an hour and a half and then head in about the time I know he has to leave for work. We all converge in the parking lot and discuss the failure to meet at LZ1 and how we would have all died if we were in Vietnam…

Boards FOR SALE Doc Surf Perscriptions and a Hoffman

I feel like mu Blog has turned into Craigslist. These Boards need to go, I am selling for a friend

6'-4" Doc, Pro 2 model, Brand new, never been in the water $440
7'-4" Doc Gun, used a few times, $425
8'-0" Hoffman 23-1/8"x 3-1/8" A big Board $395 with out the fins. This was used 5 times.

Send me an email, craig@crwallace.com