What Came over me?

Seriously, what got into me to actually surf someplace within a 15 minute drive?

I was sitting in my home office, which was nice and cozy. The dog was asleep on the couch, and I was just reading some emails, and doing a few things. I knew the surf had picked up a little, but the weather sucks! It’s cold out, not Nor Cal cold, but cold for here. I know the water was cold, because I went for a nice 2.5 mile paddle on Sunday in the bay, and my arms where freezing, but at least it was warm out. That little paddle kind of got me fired up to surf.

My buddy did another "Black Ops Dawn Patrol at LZ1 this morning and said it was fun. So, here I am sitting in my office and I check the cams, it looks good. So I figure, what the heck, just run down and surf for 45mins, then come back and work.

I grab my 6'-6" Webber Compact Disc and head out. I got the heater going, a nice cup of Joe, all the while my mind is saying, just check it out!

I pull into the "Staging Area", hop out, and shimmy up the hill and peak over the top to check out LZ1. It looks good, plenty of action, other guys moving all around the LZ, digging in. I suit up, wax up and head out down the rocks.

I waited for a bit to size things up and look for the best, fastest and easiest way off the beach. I hit the water just a set was coming, bad luck on my part, but I pushed on!

I sat out side and waited. I told myself, to wait for the right one. Sure enough, a nice little peak pops up on the outside; I head for the right, another guy for the left. I paddle hard, mentally telling myself to get to my feet fast and don't blow it! I feel the wave start to lift me forward; I take one extra stroke for good luck, put my hand on the deck and push off. Now, this is where my friends are usually paddling back out, and either my hand slips off the deck, or I just blow it and cartwheel right in front of them. NOT THIS TIME! I angle right, feet planted firmly, I stay low and compact, and go to the bottom, lean on my inside rail and push with my legs to make a nice smooth bottom turn and look up at a nice shoulder/head high wall lining up. (I almost pissed my wetsuit with excitement that I did not blow it.) Coming out of my bottom turn I got some speed, and shot up the face. I shifted my weight back over the center, got low and eyed the lip in front of me. (Holy #$@#! don't blow this!). I leaned onto my back foot, leading with my left arm, and pointing with my right, I hit the lip, drove some weight onto my back foot while rotating and threw a nice little spray. (I almost pissed my wetsuit with excitement again) No typical stalls and falls. I actually looked like I knew what I was doing. I must have been channeling my inner surfer that has been dormant. What ever it was it was FUCKING AWESOME! I came back down, leaned into the face for a quick speed pump, and noticed it was going to close out. I shot back up and did a nice flying pull out with a Triple Lindy, and into the water.

Granted, it was not the longest wave, but, hell, beach breaks are not points.

Sadly I was surfing as "Mr. Lonely, party of one". None of my friends saw it.

I caught another good one and came in from my 45 minute heat, stoked!

All it takes is one good ride to get you back into it. The best part was that I was doing this local. Not driving north or south. My crew will fall over when they read this.