BLack Ops - Dawn Patrol Mission(Surfing is a Addiction)

I get this from a good friend of mine this morning. I have talked about this guy in the past. This is my friend that has Glaucoma in his left eye, had that surgey were they put a little pressure reflief valve in to keep him from going Blind. Well, surfing is like a drug. He was told to stay out of the water beacuse he could get an internal eye infection and go blind! That was two years ago. I guess he can't stay out of the water any more. Kinda of like falling off the wagon. he has been on a surfing binge for a little while now.
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This was the email and photo.( He loves to use Corel Draw on his Photos)



Hilarity this morning at the cliffs, while most of you were getting an extra hour sleep. Ned is hell bent on surfing 6 days a week so when the waves are good I try to join him. Even if he has a meeting at 7:00am he will get in the water at O dark thirty. This morning was no exception, waves were a solid 2-4, so Ned recommended we go to the (spot deleted to protect the locals).

So we meet at 5:30 near *** beach. Ned pops out of the Prius, with full camo paint on his face………………..Jesus,we are like two 8 year olds. After cracking up and taking a photo we wait for Travelocity(nick name of other surfer) but,the invasion can’t be late so we move to the launching point on the beach. After reviewing the huge consistent waves and the massive current we agree, on a LZ1 spot ( Landing Zone ) directly in front of the bathroom lights and the first palm tree. After we paddle out, we plan to meet just outside the waves (like on Saving private Ryan when he says “what do we do now sir” and he answers “get to the beach” well this is kind of like the opposite of that, get off the beach!

As we walk out into the surf, and its fucking black as night out in the pre-dawn, and I can’t see shit,I say to Ned “now I’ll meet you straight out………….right there”. Once we jump on our boards and start paddling, its clear why I’m titled paddleboard champion and Ned is not. As I’m halfway out, and still in earshot of Ned, I notice there is a lull in the waves and I yell “COME ON DUDE GO NOW!”……I paddle hard, and barely make it over an outside set, look back to see the carnage that is Ned, being dragged to the beach with about 18 more waves in the set on his head……..

I stay and surf at LZ1 (as planned) for an hour and a half and then head in about the time I know he has to leave for work. We all converge in the parking lot and discuss the failure to meet at LZ1 and how we would have all died if we were in Vietnam…