What does surfing mean to you?

What does surfing mean to you?

Really, stop and think about that! What does Surfing mean to you? Think about how long you have been surfing, 5, 10, 20, 30 years? What else have you done for that long with such dedication, that it is the driving force in your life? Sure there are times when you don’t surf much, but it is still there, it is still part of you. What is it about surfing that has that inexhaustible, long term affect, the ability to enter your soul, your mind, and provide a continual deep-rooted ability to stay with you?

Surfing can have a different meaning for you at different times in your life. Think back, maybe to 16 or 18. What did it mean then? For me, the two are very different.

For me, surfing is simple, it is the mornings that I associate surfing the most with. The quite, the new, the unknown. Surfing fills a void. Without Surfing, I don’t know what I would do, who I would be. Without surfing I would be just like the tourist that pulls up next to you in the parking lot. The one that looks so out of place. Without surfing,I would not be me……………