Sunday, February 28, 2010

Long Beach............Again!

I took the new DSLR down to Belmont Shore this morning. HB was closed out, Seal Beach was going off, but since my Ankle is jacked, I get to play with the new toy.
As you can see, it was breaking, not as good as that week we had in January, but still surfable. This would be my "Home Break" if the breakwall was gone! I can only dream......

Friday, February 26, 2010

Bone chip.........Ouch!

So, back on 2/14 I rolled my ankle. I was not doing anything great, like an Air Reverse or a big floater over a big section (like I could anyways?), hell I wasn't even drunk! I was just walking down the 5 steps into my garage and somehow planted my foot wrong, and rolled my ankle.

I finally got around to go to my primary doctor today, since it still hurts. I was sitting in the room after the xray, and I could here them talking outside the hallway(do they not think we can hear them?). I heard them say the word......."CHIP", and i knew they weren't talking about an old episode of "Ponch and John"
So, the lady comes in and gives me the bad news, and all I am thinking is, "this thing better heal fast because I leave for Tortola on the 3/31 for 10days.". They say "just try and lay low, keep the brace on and drink milk, and come back in 3 weeks". Ok......then!

I have an appointment with Dr. Warren Kramer in 2 weeks. (below)( ), best Ortho around, down in Newport Beach. He did my knee, and my shoulder. Solid guy and he is an ortho for the ASP World Tour.(shameless plug!) So hopefully he will give me some good news.

Long and short of it. I have 4.5 weeks to get this fixed so I can surf.
Once you hit 40, you really have to be careful, some thing as simple as just "walking" , can lay you up for a few weeks.
I have a friend that always says, " The best thing to do is nothing , and just breath".......

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Some place far from the surf....

My job takes me all over the southland. On this particular day, it took me to the home of the 22nd Street Gang. I wonder if any of these guys have been to the beach?

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Cayucos Pier

A Friend of mine sent me these pictures from his recent trip up to the Central Coast to Cayucos.

I spent two years of my early surf life up in the central coast. Surfed St. Annes, Morro Rock, Pico Creek, Avila Pier, and Arroyo Laguna on days when the elephant seals were hauled out on the beach. I look back now ,and think how dumb that was, because the "LandLord",aka "Whitey", aka Great White, was most likely out there since they love elephant seals. I remember 1985, paddling out at sunset up at Willow Creek, a beautiful ,yet spooky place. Big boulders and giant bulb kelp. The kelp would bump your feet and legs as they dangled over the side. I thought for sure it was something swimming by me in the water.

One thing I do not miss is the cold water.............

Thursday, February 18, 2010


So, many of my friends know that I am a full-on, yard sale, Thrift Store Junkie. I just love the thrill of finding something good, and cheap. I think it all goes back to when I was a kid, and my Grandmother used to work at the Council Thrift Store on Lankershim Boulevard in North Hollywood. I would spend hours going through the stuff in back and all over the store.

Well, today was my lucky day.
First, I was at the bank, and found $5 on the floor. Sure, I could have picked it up and turned it in, but hey, we are in a Recession, and I need every buck I can get my hands on.

Next, I was heading over to the local Good Will store to get some crutches to use for my ankle.

Well, in the back was this little gem. A nice Hard Santa Monica SurfCases travel case..... For $19.99!

Tis will be perfect for my trip in Late March to the Carribbean. Also, All my friends can borrow it.

Off to buy a Lottery Ticket, this is my Lucky Day!

Sunday, February 14, 2010


So, we get a new swell. I was going to do a little dawn patrol down to lowers in the morning.......but, I rolled my ankle walking down the (4) stepps to my garage. WTF!

My very frist thought was, I hope it is not bad, since I am heading to Tortola at the end of March. This gives me 6 weeks to get it back in shape.

Saturday, February 13, 2010

More globetrotters

****sent from my mobile phone****

harlem globtrotters

****sent from my mobile phone****

Thursday, February 11, 2010

good eats at the EP house

****sent from my mobile phone****

Monday, February 8, 2010

This says it all!

I found this over on "the daily donkey blog"

Take a look at all the funny surf pics. I should send them the shot of me.

South Bay Sand Bar

These are some shots of my friend DM in the South Bay

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Hide Tide Fun

Since the crowds are so big these days, it seems we are forced to surf at times we would normally pass on. Take for instance a few of my friends, they have resorted to surfing this point break at high tide since the crowds are less.

I guess this is what we have to do from now on. The dawn patrol session has now become the pre-dawn patrol session on a full moon. So far, this resession is having a negative effect on surfing, more people are unemployed and the lineups are more crowded then ever. Add to the mix a new crop of people catching the Stand Up Craze(Ocean sweepers, oarons, janitors, etc...) The only way to get some solitude with your mates is to surf off times, off swells, at off spots.