First Day here in the Carribean

Well, after a long day of travel, We are finally here.

It all started when the Two Somali car service guys showed up at my house to pick up me and the family. I looked down after we had loaded everything, and the back tire was almost flat. The two guys looked at each other in complete surprise. I had to direct them to a gas station to fill up with air.

Once we got on the "Redeye" the plane was totally sold out. No trying to score a bulkhead seat!

We arrived in San Juan, Puerto Rico to catch our America Eagle, (more like a tweety bird). We get everything on, i saw the boards made it so I breathed a sigh of relief. Well, as our luck would have it, the AC was not working on the plane..WAIT a MINUTE, who wants to hear about that?

Lets talk about the surf!

As I came over Zion Hill Road, I watched a nice peak peel off over the reef. I made a mental note that 3 guys were out.

About an hour later, I got my stuff together and and drove over, it was about 5pm and there were at least 10 guys out. I pulled out my trusty 7'-6" single fin pintail, it is kind of "hullshape".

I waxed up, and walked down the beach looking for the channel. Just as I started the paddle out a nice 5' face set broke on the reef. The right peeled off better then the lefts. Once I got to the peak, I looked around to see if there was a pecking order, who was local, and who was not. I sat on the shoulder to figure things out for about 15 minutes. A set was coming, but was hitting the reef about 20 yards north of me, it looked so good, the water is in the high 70's and crystal clear.

After that set, another one started coming in to where I was on the reef, I let the first one go, and swung around for the second. I stroked into the clear water with total determination and salivation, just as I felt the glide, I popped up and took off down the line, a quick pump for speed, the the wave started to feel the reef and set up, the face height was about 6'. I did some carving turns and milked it for at least 50 yards,before I realized I was in shallow water about 2' and kicked out.

I stroked back out with and huge smile. I guy on a longboard was paddling back out next to me and said"nice wave"! Yes it was

Well i grabbed a few more small ones and then waited a little farther out and to the north for one like I saw when I first paddled out.

Sure enough, my patience was rewarded. A perfect 6' foot peak was hitting the reef, I was in the perfect spot. I dropped in, and hit it fast, carving high, then dropping low, This thing just kept on opening up for me, The local guy was paddling back, and I did a high crave right over him. I worked this thing for about 60 yards, then pronned out for the ride to the sand.

I reached down and undid my leash, looked back and just smiled, I was so stoked to have a good session on my first day here.

Sorry, no pictures, I cant leave the camera in the car. I will try and snap a few tomorrow.

C-Dub