So, as some of you are aware, I am in full work mode. This happens when you are "self-employed". It is feast or famine, and for too long it as famine. I had to take a part-time 1099 consulting job to keep the wheels on the cart. Well that ended back in September. However, it has been full speed ahead on the appraisal front. 7 days a week. work all day, take a family break in the evening and then back at it until I can't keep my eyes open. All this to make the almighty dollar.
I have heard, seen and read about how good the surf has been, but, my priority was the dollar for the familia.
Today was different, it was about 10am, I was looking at the HD surf cam of the closest spot to my house, "the rivers end" and actually saw some small rights coming in, a small crowd and 80+ degree weather, hot and sunny. I jumped up from my desk, left the dog sleeping on the couch, ran downstairs, like the house was on fire.
Grabbed my trusty 7'-8" pintail single fin, and was almost laying some rubber as I torn down the alley. I told my self, " C-dub, you only get 45 minutes, so make the most of it"
Into the parking lot, to a slot in the front row and into my 2mm short sleeve full in record time. Hit the water to be greeted by a girl in a bikini paddling out and took my place in the lineup. There must have been a "sweepers" meeting because there was about 7 "oarons" of minimal talent on the outside, all trying to be Laird......whatever.
I grabbed about four waves, not great size, about waist, maybe shoulder on the take off, they lined up all the way in. I would just set the rail, get up towards the front and just glide...
Ahhhh......it was a good time. Surfing feels good.
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