Back in the Water Again.....

So I finally got in a real surf since my shoulder injury.

Since today is my Birthday, VR and I decided to head to Spot X. We got there around 9am. The main spot was packed tighter then a can of sardines, with everyone fighting for one peak. We went to the Middle spot.

The wind was blowing very lightly out of the north, while a giant fog bank was lingering off shore, waiting to come in. There was around 10 guys already out, speard out over 50 yards. To be honest it didn’t look all that good, but I was my birthday and I was going to surf.

I paddled out and caught a small right, worked it in, and thought this might be fun. I quickly caught two more. VR came out and he got a few. Then, everyone left except one other guy, he stayed north of us. The surf picked up and we had the spot to ourselves for about forty five minutes.
Rights and lefts. We had a bunch of waves. It was a real fun session, more then we expected. But if you go in with low expectations, you get rewarded.
While I was sitting n the lineup, it dawned on me that we have been coming to this spot for 28 years, shit, I am getting old!

BTW, the shoulder is sore, but not real bad.