What does surfing mean to you?

What does surfing mean to you?

Really, stop and think about that! What does Surfing mean to you? Think about how long you have been surfing, 5, 10, 20, 30 years? What else have you done for that long with such dedication, that it is the driving force in your life? Sure there are times when you don’t surf much, but it is still there, it is still part of you. What is it about surfing that has that inexhaustible, long term affect, the ability to enter your soul, your mind, and provide a continual deep-rooted ability to stay with you?

Surfing can have a different meaning for you at different times in your life. Think back, maybe to 16 or 18. What did it mean then? For me, the two are very different.

For me, surfing is simple, it is the mornings that I associate surfing the most with. The quite, the new, the unknown. Surfing fills a void. Without Surfing, I don’t know what I would do, who I would be. Without surfing I would be just like the tourist that pulls up next to you in the parking lot. The one that looks so out of place. Without surfing,I would not be me……………

Doug Aitken - The Idea of the West

A while back I had a post about an old friend, Artist Doug Aitken. I found his email address and we connected. I sent him a link to "Clean Up Set".

Doug was looking over the posts and found a shot of EP and his Aipa Stinger from the 1970's. The photo was taken by EP's brother, Paul. Doug was working on a book for the Museum of contemporary Art in LA, and was in the final stages getting it ready to print. He sent me an email asking if he could use that picture to include in his book.

I called EP, and he looked high and low for a original copy to scan and send to Doug.

We finally found one, and emailed it to him just in time.

I got home today to find two copies of the book in the mail. I opened it, turned to page 93 to see our boys mug. This is bitter sweet for EP and his family, since his older brother is no longer with us. I wish I had the chance to meet him. I have seen a bunch of his photos, and they are pretty cool. Maybe I can get a few to put up on the blog.

RIP Paul!

JUST IN...Belmont Shore!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would like to think this would be my "Home Spot" if it broke more often. I always check it in the winter on big stormy swells.

I was down this afternoon shooting some pics. I saw this kid ride up on his bike. His name is Dakota, I told him to paddle out and I would snap some photos.

I think this is actually the first ridable day of the winter, hopefully more to come.





photo C-DUB

What Came over me?

Seriously, what got into me to actually surf someplace within a 15 minute drive?

I was sitting in my home office, which was nice and cozy. The dog was asleep on the couch, and I was just reading some emails, and doing a few things. I knew the surf had picked up a little, but the weather sucks! It’s cold out, not Nor Cal cold, but cold for here. I know the water was cold, because I went for a nice 2.5 mile paddle on Sunday in the bay, and my arms where freezing, but at least it was warm out. That little paddle kind of got me fired up to surf.

My buddy did another "Black Ops Dawn Patrol at LZ1 this morning and said it was fun. So, here I am sitting in my office and I check the cams, it looks good. So I figure, what the heck, just run down and surf for 45mins, then come back and work.

I grab my 6'-6" Webber Compact Disc and head out. I got the heater going, a nice cup of Joe, all the while my mind is saying, just check it out!

I pull into the "Staging Area", hop out, and shimmy up the hill and peak over the top to check out LZ1. It looks good, plenty of action, other guys moving all around the LZ, digging in. I suit up, wax up and head out down the rocks.

I waited for a bit to size things up and look for the best, fastest and easiest way off the beach. I hit the water just a set was coming, bad luck on my part, but I pushed on!

I sat out side and waited. I told myself, to wait for the right one. Sure enough, a nice little peak pops up on the outside; I head for the right, another guy for the left. I paddle hard, mentally telling myself to get to my feet fast and don't blow it! I feel the wave start to lift me forward; I take one extra stroke for good luck, put my hand on the deck and push off. Now, this is where my friends are usually paddling back out, and either my hand slips off the deck, or I just blow it and cartwheel right in front of them. NOT THIS TIME! I angle right, feet planted firmly, I stay low and compact, and go to the bottom, lean on my inside rail and push with my legs to make a nice smooth bottom turn and look up at a nice shoulder/head high wall lining up. (I almost pissed my wetsuit with excitement that I did not blow it.) Coming out of my bottom turn I got some speed, and shot up the face. I shifted my weight back over the center, got low and eyed the lip in front of me. (Holy #$@#! don't blow this!). I leaned onto my back foot, leading with my left arm, and pointing with my right, I hit the lip, drove some weight onto my back foot while rotating and threw a nice little spray. (I almost pissed my wetsuit with excitement again) No typical stalls and falls. I actually looked like I knew what I was doing. I must have been channeling my inner surfer that has been dormant. What ever it was it was FUCKING AWESOME! I came back down, leaned into the face for a quick speed pump, and noticed it was going to close out. I shot back up and did a nice flying pull out with a Triple Lindy, and into the water.

Granted, it was not the longest wave, but, hell, beach breaks are not points.

Sadly I was surfing as "Mr. Lonely, party of one". None of my friends saw it.

I caught another good one and came in from my 45 minute heat, stoked!

All it takes is one good ride to get you back into it. The best part was that I was doing this local. Not driving north or south. My crew will fall over when they read this.

BLack Ops - Dawn Patrol Mission(Surfing is a Addiction)

I get this from a good friend of mine this morning. I have talked about this guy in the past. This is my friend that has Glaucoma in his left eye, had that surgey were they put a little pressure reflief valve in to keep him from going Blind. Well, surfing is like a drug. He was told to stay out of the water beacuse he could get an internal eye infection and go blind! That was two years ago. I guess he can't stay out of the water any more. Kinda of like falling off the wagon. he has been on a surfing binge for a little while now.
*************************************************************************************
This was the email and photo.( He loves to use Corel Draw on his Photos)



Hilarity this morning at the cliffs, while most of you were getting an extra hour sleep. Ned is hell bent on surfing 6 days a week so when the waves are good I try to join him. Even if he has a meeting at 7:00am he will get in the water at O dark thirty. This morning was no exception, waves were a solid 2-4, so Ned recommended we go to the (spot deleted to protect the locals).

So we meet at 5:30 near *** beach. Ned pops out of the Prius, with full camo paint on his face………………..Jesus,we are like two 8 year olds. After cracking up and taking a photo we wait for Travelocity(nick name of other surfer) but,the invasion can’t be late so we move to the launching point on the beach. After reviewing the huge consistent waves and the massive current we agree, on a LZ1 spot ( Landing Zone ) directly in front of the bathroom lights and the first palm tree. After we paddle out, we plan to meet just outside the waves (like on Saving private Ryan when he says “what do we do now sir” and he answers “get to the beach” well this is kind of like the opposite of that, get off the beach!

As we walk out into the surf, and its fucking black as night out in the pre-dawn, and I can’t see shit,I say to Ned “now I’ll meet you straight out………….right there”. Once we jump on our boards and start paddling, its clear why I’m titled paddleboard champion and Ned is not. As I’m halfway out, and still in earshot of Ned, I notice there is a lull in the waves and I yell “COME ON DUDE GO NOW!”……I paddle hard, and barely make it over an outside set, look back to see the carnage that is Ned, being dragged to the beach with about 18 more waves in the set on his head……..

I stay and surf at LZ1 (as planned) for an hour and a half and then head in about the time I know he has to leave for work. We all converge in the parking lot and discuss the failure to meet at LZ1 and how we would have all died if we were in Vietnam…

Boards FOR SALE Doc Surf Perscriptions and a Hoffman

I feel like mu Blog has turned into Craigslist. These Boards need to go, I am selling for a friend

6'-4" Doc, Pro 2 model, Brand new, never been in the water $440
7'-4" Doc Gun, used a few times, $425
8'-0" Hoffman 23-1/8"x 3-1/8" A big Board $395 with out the fins. This was used 5 times.

Send me an email, craig@crwallace.com

Beach Trike

I have Three of these Cool Schwinn Adult Trikes for sale for $220.

If interested email me craig@crwallace.com

Influences

There are certain things that have influences on you when you are young. This is one of those pictures. The way DP looks with his spiked braclet, Converse Hi-tops, shaved head, at a time when you could get beat up for looking like this. He was anti-establishment,anti-authority, rebel, punk!. To me as a young skater that loved punk rock, Duane Peters was, and still is the coolest. I wanted to be just like him! I had this photo up for a long time. I recently bought an original and have it up in my offfice. I think some of that early influece still exists in my life. I still find myself going aginst the grain, turning left, when everyone goes right.

This picture was taken by Ted Terrebone, TBone. He has a cool website of all of his skateboard photos from the 1970's to now.


Check it out.

Santa Monica Mountains and Spindrift madness from Behind the Orange Curtain

While I was out with my son and his Cub Scout Pack doing a hike in the Santa Monica Moutains, I couldn't help but look and think about the surf.

As you see by the photos and video I got from a friend, There was plenty of spindrift going on behind the Orange Curtain.

Friends that surf and Friends that don’t.

Friends that surf and Friends that don’t.

I just got off the phone with a friend I had met back in 1984 when we both went to Cuesta College (that is another story, best reserved for a camp fire). Through wonders of modern technology, I was able to track him down. I think the last time we talked was 1988/89?

But we talked like we had not missed a day. After I hung up, it dawned on me how surfing influences your friendships. Most of the longterm friendships I have are there because we share the common thread of surfing, we are surfers (at least I try). What is it about surfing that keeps these relationships? Do Golfers have these; do people identify themselves as “golfers”, what about other sports?

Think about the friends you have that don’t surf. Do you talk to them the same way? It is a shared experience, from kook to non-kook. Hours spent driving up and down the coast, looking at the ocean, watching the weather. Do your non-surfing friends notice a flag blowing by the side of the road, and can tell if it is offshore or onshore? Do they know what it means when the seasons change? Do they think Santa Ana winds are just an annoyance? Do they even care?

My good friends surf!

A fast Visit to "BCB"

I was in Pacific Palisades doing an Appraisal, still amazed at the values up there for a 1,400 sf, all original home "teardown", selling for a million, but hey, its the westside.

I decided to head down to Beer Can Beach on the way home. I fully expected to see Christian paddle out at any moment, but, since this was noon, I knew he was working.

I sat there for a liitle bit, hoping to see an apprearance by the "Landlord" aka, "the man in the grey suit", "whitey", do his thing and breach out of the water, but alas, no such luck..........

What was I thinking?

What the hell am I looking over this wave for, another better one? Come on? This was last friday November 5th. Vince and I decided to head down to trestles and see what it had.

By the looks of this it was ok. But, why did I not turn and go on this wave? Seriously, WHAT THE HELL WAS I THINKING?


Perhaps it was something like this from the first wave....CLASSIC!

Rivers End.......

So, as some of you are aware, I am in full work mode. This happens when you are "self-employed". It is feast or famine, and for too long it as famine. I had to take a part-time 1099 consulting job to keep the wheels on the cart. Well that ended back in September. However, it has been full speed ahead on the appraisal front. 7 days a week. work all day, take a family break in the evening and then back at it until I can't keep my eyes open. All this to make the almighty dollar.

I have heard, seen and read about how good the surf has been, but, my priority was the dollar for the familia.

Today was different, it was about 10am, I was looking at the HD surf cam of the closest spot to my house, "the rivers end" and actually saw some small rights coming in, a small crowd and 80+ degree weather, hot and sunny. I jumped up from my desk, left the dog sleeping on the couch, ran downstairs, like the house was on fire.
Grabbed my trusty 7'-8" pintail single fin, and was almost laying some rubber as I torn down the alley. I told my self, " C-dub, you only get 45 minutes, so make the most of it"

Into the parking lot, to a slot in the front row and into my 2mm short sleeve full in record time. Hit the water to be greeted by a girl in a bikini paddling out and took my place in the lineup. There must have been a "sweepers" meeting because there was about 7 "oarons" of minimal talent on the outside, all trying to be Laird......whatever.

I grabbed about four waves, not great size, about waist, maybe shoulder on the take off, they lined up all the way in. I would just set the rail, get up towards the front and just glide...

Ahhhh......it was a good time. Surfing feels good.

Peeeeeeeedro

I was out doing an appraisal in Peeeeeddro today. Pedro is an interesting place. You really can't surf there unless you live and have grown up there. It is kinda off the map, and the vibe is pretty heavy.

Long Delay Recap

Wow,it rally has been a long time since i posted, about as long since I ave surfed.

We had a great time a the new eveolution of Tresfest down at San Elijo. That has to be the best camp ground in So.Cal.Did you know you can have Pizza delivered to your campsite? We ate like kings, the water was cold for late setember, but we surfed anyways. We had 3 Bluff site and one in the back for overflow.

I was great to hook up with some old friends. I mean, in reality, I have known one since we attended kindergarten, so that must be 39 years? Others since 5th and 6th grade, high school and so on.

For the past 7 months or so, I had this consulting/1099 kinda of gig going. This was in my previous profession as a Commercial construction Estimator. The timing of this was good, because my new career came to a grinding halt. Well the consulting thing pretty much eliminated my ability to surf mid-week, or surf at all between family duties, AYSO, Little League, etc. But that cam to a end a few weeks back, and I am now supper busy doing Appraisals. I am taking every offer that comes my way, because I don't know how long this will last. So, Surfing is not a priority. Yes, surfing is not a priority. Kinda of sad to actually see the words hang ther on the page.

However, I know I will be back soon.

Here are some pics from the trip.

Screwed!!!!!!!!!!

Some of you may know, that back in 2005 I had shoulder surgery. Pretty bad stuff. I have mentioned it before. Rotator Cuff Tear, Bankart Tear, Slap Tear, just a mess. The doc said I should probably not do any long distance paddleboarding. That was fine, I would keep it under 4 miles, with the most just a lap around Naples Island here in the LBC.

This past spring and summer I was getting back into it, really enjoying the paddles on the bay. I was working up my speed, strength and endurance. In the mean time, I was throwing the baseball and football with my son.

Sure enough, the shoulder starts to hurt..........ALOT! I kinda mentally freaking out, knowing the "warranty" has expired, and thinking I might have torn something again.

July goes by, I don't surf or paddle, and just rest the shoulder, August comes and goes, and I do the same thing, no surfing, no paddleboarding, just rest. Finally I break down and call Dr. Kramers office and make an appointment.

Well, they take an xray with their new fancy digital xray machine, and for the first time, I get to see what he put in my shoulder.

Holy crap! look at that screw, it looks like a drywall screw.......

The doc checks me out, makes me do all kinds of movements and strength tests, and tells me to just keep doing what I want too, yeah there might be some rough edges that he could smooth out, but should he go in and do that? not Really he said. He repaired it to last.

I breathed a big sigh of relief., I an go back and surf and paddleboard.

But, on a side note, on the wall of this particular exam room, is the most amazing photo of a wave with a kid, must be around 12-13 getting ready to drop in. I just love this shot, it is so pure and simple. I snapped pic with my droid for all to see.

The Lost DOUG AITKEN

Way back in the day, August of 1988, a bunch of friends got together for a little camp out at San Onofre. Not so much camping, as sleeping in a parking lot with dirt and trains going by. We did surf.

This was just a casual get together at the end of summer. Little did we know that a core group of us would somehow continue this little camp for the next 22 years. I think all of us were still in college. But as you can imagine, alot has happened in those 22 years.

The most intriguing, was a friend, of my good friend, his name is Doug Aitken. Doug was a Student at the Art Center College of Design on Pasadena with my friend Vince.

Vince is a surfer, and Doug is a surfer, and in a world of art students wearing black, Doug and Vince were the few surfers at art school.

Fast Forward 22 years, Doug is now an internationally known visual display artist. He was just tapped by the Museum of Contemporary Art in LA to "headline" the November Gala.

Well, who would have known that the guy sitting in the dirt with us would become so big.

And what about the rest of us you might ask?

Well, we are all planning to sit in the dirt for the 22nd year, in a few weeks. However, the location has changed to San Elijo.

To surf local or not?

Sure, I can surf local. I can be in the water in fifteen minutes. But, more often, I prefer the predawn drive to a distant spot.

As you slip out the back door, the crisp morning air hits your face and your mind awakens. The air is fresh and alive as it fills your lungs. You are ready! You hear the sounds of your engine bouncing off the houses of your dark street as you “sneak” off while the rest of the world sleeps.

It’s the Aroma of fresh coffee and an old wetsuit bag in the back seat, as you head down the road following the distant red tail lights of a late night driver. Your thoughts are all yours; there is no boss, no clients, no email, no phone, no wife no kids, just you as you drive to a distant spot.

Escapism? Perhaps, therapy?.... sure. I don’t drink, or do drugs, so this is it for me; we all need to escape now and then. I am 44 now, and the solo morning runs mean more to me now, then ever. It is a time of deep thoughts and retrospection. Contemplation and introspection, of planning and remembrance. When the right song is playing, my mind drifts off like a fading swell. Things are Clear.

Some say that is what surfing provides. I find that hard to believe with today’s crowded lineups.

So, if you ask me to go local, I just might say no…………

Mans Best Friend Turns 12

A man and his dog. What can be better? I don't really know if women have the same bond as a guy does with his dog? I can walk in the back from the garage, right after I walked out the front door and drove my truck around back, and Shasta will come running with the tail wagging all excited to see me. I have been gone all of 90seconds, but still, she gets all excited to see you.

You come back from a day of surfing and who is the first one to see you and happy too, your wife? she might wish your were still out surfing. Your kids? depends how old they are. But your dog will always be happy.

So, today my Rhodesian Ridgeback(Shasta) turned 12(84 in dog years). I decided to give her a birth day dinner. I got a can of solide white albacore tuna and miked it with a cup of her food. A small birthday moment while the rest of the family was in the other room. She finished and looked up asking for more.........

I got out finally!

Paddleboarding is not a SUP!

I got this little essay from a friend of a friend who shall remain nameless.
The picture however is yours truly in mid paddle from Swamis to Windnsea. This was a few years back. No more long paddles, just 1-3 miles now.

Enjoy the essay!
The end is awesome



Real Paddle Boarders Do it Laying Down

July, 2, 2010

You know the feeling after a long paddle out to a remote surf break, or paddling hard into a big wave against the wind? Now imagine that feeling for 32 miles, or at least 5 straight hours. That sums up the intensity and insanity of the few "traditional" paddle boarders who take on the Kaiwi Channel every July. Now imagine the millions of people who have tried stand up paddling claim they are also "paddle boarders". Traditional paddle boarding, as its now being referred to, only a few years ago was the only paddle boarding the world knew, and now

with the popularity of Stand Up Paddle Boarding (SUP), the traditional guys are fighting for their sport --and their name, amongst a bevy of inexperienced stand up "paddle boarders".

Though classified under the same category, and often times confused with stand up paddling-- real paddle boarders do it laying down, along side the ocean, not 6 feet above it. Prone paddle boarding is one of the toughest, mentally grueling and most ocean-sensitive paddle sports. The innate snes of feel each paddler requires to recognize each change in the ocean landscape, distinguishes the sport for only the true water men. On a paddle-board, you can fit into almost every type of bump, which makes you work with the ocean in a more intimate way than any other ocean sport--yet at the same time, any minor ocean change, such as a knot of wind, inch of tide or ripple of surf, effects your performance much more drastically. The lack of leverage from standing or sitting up, forces you to relate and adapt to the oceans current climate using a keen --almost subconscious --6th sense.

Stand up paddling is much different. You have maximum leverage standing, a towering, 6 feet above the ocean, and most of time you don't even have to get wet while doing it. In essence, the two sports are nothing alike, aside from the similar speeds they travel across the ocean and the fact that you are on a board.

Stand up also extremely novice-friendly--the obvious root of its popularity--because literally, anyone can do it. This creates a problem, when novice water men are wielding 7 foot blades and 14 foot boards in the treacherous open-ocean or crowded surf breaks.

This, among other reasons, is why, in spite its many participants, stand up paddling is surprisingly still struggling to find its place among many other traditional and modern paddle sports. Surfing, one of its' biggest overlapping sports, has ironically been one of its biggest adversaries. The size of stand up boards makes it easier to catch waves farther outside, putting SUPers at the top of the surfing hierarchy, which not only crowds local surf spots but leaving "traditional" surfers frustrated with the ease at which they catch them.

Traditional paddle boarders and outrigger style paddlers have watched the sport explode in a sense of shock and awe as it continues to gain national and international popularity, high prize purses and major sponsors. The sense of dismay comes from knowing highly technical sports, such as their own, will never gain as much popularity based on the difficulty of it. However, these traditional paddlers seem to find peace in the fact that they know they can always step up and grab a piece of the action.





Some of the greats have, indeed, broken into Stand Up and have taken top honors. Rooted in the traditional (and now minority) forms of paddling, they have "stood up" to get their hands on some prize money. Take the top four Battle of the Paddle finishers--Danny Ching, winner of the Molokai Solo earlier this year-- Travis Grant of Australia was on the winning Pa'a 'Eono crew--Aaron Napoleon, 11th in the Molo Solo, renown surfer, paddler, waterman and Jamie Mitchell, the king of "traditional" paddle boarding all stepped out of their usual sports to take top honors.

At least there is a sense of justice knowing that although the traditional paddle sports are still lacking financial backing, its easy enough to cross over to the more easily learned paddle sport and get some money.

Maybe the animosity comes from seeing fully clothed (and dry) SUPers leisurely paddling by, or someone paddling a whole race with the paddle angle backwards, or just the fact that Matthew McConaughey and Nicole Ritchie can both do it.

But compared to its "traditional" brother, there is no way they can match up. In other words, if your standing, your hair is dry, you can see your destination easily over the bumps, or you star in corny romantic comedies-- Don't call yourself a paddle boarder.

Two Sessions, double the fun.

So, I actually got out and surfed this past weekend……Twice. How crazy is that? The longer you stay out of the water, the harder it is to get back.
I was really lacking the motivation to go, so I devised a plan that would test my desire. A 4:30am wake-up for a Dawn Patrol. Truly crazy. But then, I made it even more difficult by deciding to go to County Line.

Some how, I had friend agree to go along. I can always count on him for a Road Trip and a Dawn Patrol.

By the time we got to County Line (after stopping for Coffee) it as about 5:40. The tide was very low, and the waves looked average at best. I really wanted to just turn around. But I had made such a good effort, I had to paddle out. I brought the 2mm short sleeve full, what a mistake. When I first jumped in the water and felt the cold come over me, I thought what a bad idea this was. But these are the things that happen if you don’t surf regularly. You make excuses about why you don’t surf.

I wasn’t a stellar session, but I did manage to catch a couple before I succumb to the cold and the mediocre conditions.

Sundays’ Session

This one was not even planned. Surfing was the last thing on my mind. I had just finished taking the dog for a walk, and stopped to talk to my neighbor. He said he was going to surf since the swell was up. He was going to Anderson Street. Then it got me thinking, this is a South, South East Swell, the river jetty at Seal works good, sometimes real good on this type of swell. HB was out of the question on a South, you get in at The cliffs, and in fifteen minutes you are almost at Bolsa.

I grabbed my trusty 7’-6” and went on down to hit Seal. The waves looked good. I caught a few and came in, nothing great, but just enough.

After being Self-Employed for 8 years, and being able to surf whenever and wherever(usually Trestles). Having a par-time paid Consulting Job in an office is tough. I would normally surf during the week and not surf weekends. But, responsibility calls.

TresFest

First Surf Cars

So, my good mate, VR sent me this picture of his 1971 Opel.His first car. He loved that car. This is a picture from 1982, or 1983 up in Ventura, by EmmaWood. He said the boards on the roof are Channel Islands Twin Fin and a Skip Frye Single. I would kill to have those now.

Sadly, both the boards and the car are gone. But it makes you think back to the innocent times, when you got your drivers license, and all the surf spots opend up. You became free to hit the road and search for surf.
This was before surfline. If you wanted to know what the surf was like someplace, you got in your car and drove there, The only kinda of surf report w back then was to watch Dr. George Fischbeck on Channle 7 at 11pm.

Wild Animals

Found this on the surfline photos section.

Cobble Stones or Kidney Stones

I have been out of commission lately. I have been focused on making money, to keep the wheels on the cart. I have thought about surfing, but I just have not had the time. I want too, but just have not been able too.

Well, I had another thing happen that will keep me out of the water.

I was woken from a deep sleep the other night around 10:45 (yes, that is early for some of you!) by a sharp pain in my back on the left side. I thought it was a back spasm, since my back has been real bad lately. I laid there trying to relax, and the pain just keeps getting worse. It was hot and felt like I was getting jabbed by a hot branding iron. I got up, and could hardly move, still thinking it was the worst back spasm I have ever had, I tried to lie on the floor and stretch it out. By this time my wife was up and knew this was not a typical back spasm.

After fifteen minutes of the pain, we finally called my Doctor (happens to be my neighbor, two doors down). He tells my wife to get me to emergency; it is most likely a kidney stone. So, now it is 11:30pm. I need to get to the hospital, my 8 year old son is sound asleep in his room and we don’t want to have him get up and freak out seeing Dad in pain. So, I tell my wife to call EP. It is times like these, that you really can tell who your good friends are! Five minutes later, EP is at the door (he later tells me he had a big next day, couple of meetings, etc, and went to sleep early to be rested, but he still shows up)

He looks at me, and could tell I was in bad shape. (Side note: EP and I have been watching every episode of “The Pacific” on HBO; I had read all the books about the Marines in WWII. I look at him and say, “This is not as bad as the Marines in the Pacific, if I was in a foxhole with this pain, you guys would have shot me, to shut me up).

I get in the F150 for the ride to emergency and I am literally cringing and squirming with pain.

We get in, I get a bed, and then have to wait another 10-20 minutes until someone finally comes in to do something with me. Finally, this nurse comes in and tells me they are going to hook me up to an IV, then give me some Morphine. F-YEAH! I am thinking. So, he tells me to count backwards from ten. 10, 9, 8, …ahhhhhh……..a warm feeling starts to move through my body, I put my head back, and my eyes roll back in my head as the Morphine hits………relief.( all as EP snaps pics with the camera phone!) No wonder people like Heroin, this shit is good……….


Well, I finally leave around 3 -4am, loaded on Morphine, with a prescription for Iodine and other drugs in hand. I was told to drink large amounts of water, and pee in a strainer.

It has been a few days, and the pain is still there, but not like the first night. In the midst of my Morphine high/haze, I was laughing to myself thinking about what my buddy; VR says about getting old, “the best thing to do is just breath”

All this on the heels of turning 44. Just breathe!

Mother Wants her Beauty Back

This is a preview for a new film coming out by Grant Eads

Mother Wants Her Beauty Back Preview Two from Grant Eads on Vimeo.

VR's new Board

Wow, it has been a long time since I have added something. I think it has to do with the fact, that since I have been back, I have not surfed.



I went in to have a spot on my shoulder removed. I had it looked at by the dermatologist and it came back positive. I went in for the Mohs procedure. Basically, they slice a layer/section.Look at it under the microscope to see if they got it, if not, they slice again. Well....I have a dime size hole on my right shoulder. Told me to stay out of the water.



Just goes to show you how bad the sun is.



Now for some positive news! My good friend, VR got his new board. He is a "die hard" Channel Islands guy, has been since about 1982. He ordered a new 6'-8" Flyer, 5 MONTHS AGO!, and just got it. Looks pretty much like and early '80's bump squash template? He calls it his new magic board!



Anyways, it was just what he needed to get back the "Stoke" funny how a new board can do that?

Last Day!

I went down early for a surf check. The Trade Wind were still blowing, but from the ESE, still blowing things out. I sat on the wall and looked at "the spot" for a long time, trying to "will" the wind to stop. But, my Jedi powers did not work.

In retrospect, surfing in warm water, with the trades, is still better then surfing with a fullsuit.

My time here has been great. I dont want it to be this long until I come back. The family was already saying they wanted to come back.

Two Drink minimum!

Yes, there is plenty to drink here. Rum is the main drink, Pain Killers and Pina Coladas.
We ventured over the west end for some late afternoon eats and drinks. We sat down and looked out over the harbor. This is a main watering hole for many of the charters. The was one "HUGE" Yatch, just the kind you dream about if you won the lottery. As I was watching, I noticed two guys walking down the gangway with surfboards. The boards were brand new from the local shaper here on the island. They loaded up there dingy and some of the kids from the yatch got on with there boards and they speed of to hit "the spot".

By this time my first 16oz Pina Colada came, then some food, Conch Fritters. I had one more 160z Coladaand took it for the road. As we came back over Zion Hill, the surf actually looked a little fun for a sunset session. I dropped off the family, got my board and went back.

There was one guy out, it was about 2'-4' with some trade wind. Another guy paddled out as I was looking at it.

So, I jumped in and started paddling, but did not feel so good, it was those damn Pina coladas with all that Rum and Coco Lopez mix, I literally thought I was going to puke, I felt so bloated and full.

I grabbed a couple of smalls, because that all there was before a squall hit and went in.

Lesson learned, do not drink two 16oz Pina Coladas before you surf.

Trade Winds and Banana Nut Pancakes

The trades picked back up again this morning. As you can see, a standard mode of surf transport is by Boat.

I went back down to the spot around 9:30 for Breakfast. Where else can you eat Banana Nut Pancakes and watch the surf?

Less Wind, Less Waves

Well the winds died down a little this morning. I went down to check the waves. I stood on the beach as the "rasta guy" got high about fifty feet from me.

The swell was dropping, you could tell, but there was no one out to actually be able to tell the size. So, I had to go and find out. The water is so warm. I paddled out from the left of the peak. The sets were about 2'-4' with an occasional 5', and I do mean "ocasional".

I got few right out of the gate, and worked the as much as can be worked. I have to say, it was fun.

On a side note, so far all the others guys I have talked to in the lineup are pretty mellow. No aggro ex-pats, or locals. Most of the guys have been coming down here for years, a guy from Jersey has been coming dont since 1992, and another guy for over 30 years. Hell, my first trip here was in 1996, but I have not been coming every year.

The forecast calls for a drop in swell then a pick up at the end of the week. The wind will switch to the east, which will be more side shore, but the mountains will give some protection.